Hands up if you know where Sangkhla Buri is located!

Not very many I suspect, and the answer is very close to the Thai Myanmar border about 210 miles or 375km northwest of Bangkok, and far from any of the well known destinations in Thailand that attract the bulk of the 30+ million international tourists who visit Thailand annually.

Most overseas visitors usually base themselves in one or two of Bangkok, Pattaya, Chiang Mai and/or the islands of Phuket, Koh Samui or Ko Chang, but Thailand has a lot to offer with a wealth of ancient city and temple complexes, excellently maintained National and Historical Parks and hundreds of lesser known and attractive islands.

I wrote about the attractions of Road Trips (here) and Thailand is a country like the USA which is ideal for road trips with varied topography, a wealth of attractions, an excellent road system, affordable car hires and a wide range of  very competitively priced accommodation. On top of that the excellent Amazon Coffee Shops are regularly placed along the major highways.  And as a bonus many road signs are in English as well as Thai.

The only downside is Thai drivers can be somewhat erratic and motor bikes in particular prone to going in both directions on both sides of the road.

And Driving is on the left which is great for Brits but not everyone else!

Over the years that I have lived in Thailand I have made and enjoyed many road trips along the Mekong (Article 69 – The Mighty Mekong) discovering Ancient Cities (Article 64 – Ancient Cities and Temples), exploring the Golden Triangle, (Article 61 – Exploring the Golden Triangle), visiting festivals (Article 65 – The Elephant Round Up ) as well as visiting National Parks (Article 11 – A family outing – Thailand) and (Article 68 – Unexpected delights when travelling).

However, despite being a former Geography teacher and Tour Operator, I am not sure I would have been able to accurately position Sangkhla Buri on a map of Thailand if you had asked me 12 months ago.

It was one of those places I had heard of in passing and if prompted would have remembered is at the end of the road leading northwest from Kanchanaburi towards Myanmar (formerly Burma)

Historically there has been a border crossing of sorts at the Three Pagodas Pass but it is currently closed which is as it should be as the corrupt Military government in Myanmar deserves to be ostracised, isolated and excluded from the community of nations.

Not satisfied with persecuting the Moslem Rohingya minority the government has imposed Martial Law, placed the elected leader Aung San Suu Kyi under house arrest and regularly turns its arms on protesting citizens. Indeed, Myanmar is now a nation wracked with Civil War with parts under the control of war lords and regional rebels and with little or no (legal) cross border trade it can be argued Sangkhla Buri is a town with no purpose.

Although the border is closed to international travellers, Thais can get a permit to make a day visit by foot to the closest town on the Myanmar side to allow some cross border trade of low-cost items. However, the Burmese side of the border is renowned as areas where trafficked souls are used not just for sexual exploitation but for large scale call centres (‘Boiler Rooms’) inducing people around the world to make substantial investments in non-existent companies.

Sangkhla Buri is located about 225 kilometres north west of Kanchanaburi which is a popular tourist destination for both Thai and International tourists, because of its association with the famed Death Railway that Japanese soldiers cruelly forced both Prisoners of War, and indentured indigenous slave labour to build in atrocious conditions during World War 2.

It is at Kanchanaburi where one finds the famous Bridge over the River Kwai immortalised by the film of the same name, War Cemeteries and World War two Museums, and I had three times  previously visited the area, explored the most famous historical sites associated with the Death Railway and stayed at three interesting hotels – one floating on the River Kwai, one riverside and one under canvas.

So, when prompted I would have remembered that there was a dead end road that continued to the Myanmar border and I have long been attracted to destinations at the end of a long road! It is the adventurous Geographer explorer that prompts me to see what is at the end of the road!

And it is Sangkhla Buri that is located at the end of this road which in itself is one of Thailand’s most interesting and spectacular roads which passes picturesque temples, charming rural villages and at times almost hugging the shores of a large man-made lake

Sangkhla Buri is located at the foot of low hills on the shores of Vajiralongkorn Lake, and its isolation only adds to its enchantment and mystique.

So that’s where it is – but why did I visit it in January this year?

I had spent November and December in Switzerland, and Christmas and New Year in the UK with my family but was keen to get back to the warmer climes of Thailand.

And at the same time a friend of mine was travelling from the Philippines to the UK to commence postgraduate studies and I suggested they broke their journey and we went on a short road trip until we went our separate ways – they to live and study in cosmopolitan Bristol in the West of England and me to refurbish and renovate three apartments in Pattaya Thailand.

So now you know both where Sangkhla Buri is located and why I visited it earlier this year.

And after looking at the images you can decide whether you want to add the drive to Sangkhla Buri to your bucket list!

 

 

The Khwae Noi River

There are several floating hotels on the Khwae Noi River where I have previously stayed, where one can relax and watch river life pass by. Some are only accessible by river transfer. The plus side is beautiful riverside verandas, but the negative side of a floating hotel is that the only swimming pool is the fast moving river! So be careful you don’t end up several hundred metres downstream when you swim in the river!

 

 

 River Kwai Resotel

My preferred base in this area without a doubt is the River Kwai Resotel where we stayed on this occasion. It is accessible by boat or by a small road off the main road to Sangkhla Buri. The hotel boasts a spectacular riverside location, two swimming pools, magnificent grounds, and is within walking distance of the Lawa Caves, a Mon tribal village and the famous Float Hotel. And all this for no more than the price of an average American Motel!

 

The Lawa Cave

The Lawa Cave is no more than a 10 minute walk from the Resotel but is far from overrun with visitors as it is a good 20 minute drive from the road to Sangkhla Buri. I have now visited it twice and on both occasions only seen a handful of other visitors. It was discovered by a local hunter in 1950, and the government appointed him to manage the cave for the next 40 years! Although it is lit there are three or four headlamps for visitors to borrow. The cave consists of 5 main chambers and extends almost 500 metres from the entrance and is characterized by many beautiful rock formations, stalactites, stalagmites and plenty of bats!

 

 

Sai Yok Noi Waterfall

By contrast the Sai Yok Noi Waterfall although only a 25 minute drive from the Resotel is back on the main road to Sangkhla Buri and attracts many more visitors.

 

Hellfire Pass

Hellfire Pass is the most famous attraction on the road to Sangkhla Buri.

It is also one of the most well known World War 2 Commemorations on display in Kanchanaburi Province that symbolise the enormous human suffering and historical significance of the Death Railway. Thousands of Allied prisoners and Asian labourers died building the railway under the most brutal conditions and Hellfire Pass (or Konyu Cutting) was one of the most difficult and notorious sections to construct. The railway was functional for 20 months between 1943 and 1945 before being damaged by Allied bombing and the central and Burmese sections were dismantled after the war. It is estimated as many as 100,000 deaths were associated with the construction of the railway and around 3,000 at Hellfire Pass.

The surrounding jungle, the unrelenting heat and humidity, forced labour, minimal rations and a lack of basic hygiene meant disease was rampant and produced both high fatalities and heroes.

 

Thong Pha Pum

Thong Pha Pum offers a flavour of the regional culture with Mon curries, grilled river fish and fresh fruit available at the local market. There is a colourful temple near the riverside, and the nearby Thong Pha Pum National Park is waiting to be explored.

 

 

Vajiralongkorn Dam

The dam is about 5 miles north of Thong Pha Pum and was built in the 1980s to form Lake Vajiralongkorn which stretches all the way north to Sangkhla Buri. One can drive to the top of the Dam for far ranging views.

 

Pom Pee

Pom Pee is a scenic roadside park, camping spot and viewpoint overlooking Lake Vajiralongkorn, and is located about 20 miles or 40 minutes south of Sangkhla Buri. It is part of Khaolaem National Park.

 

 

Sangkhla Buri

Sangkhla Buri is a mix of cultures being originally an indigenous Karen settlement augmented by Thais. To this mix has been added Mon and Burmese settlers who have fled over the border from Myanmar’s internal problems for decades if not centuries. It is a small town settled around Lake Vajiralongkorn with the market centre just north of the lake and the Mon Village of Wang Kha to the south of the lake. The Mon Bridge connecting the two settlements is the towns signature feature.

 

Vajiralongkorn Lake

The lake is in fact a huge reservoir that was created by the inauguration of the Vajiralongkorn Dam in 1982 which enlarged Khao Laem Lake and in doing so submerged much of the original Sangkhla Buri village! As a result a boat trip on the Lake is an essential ingredient of any visit to Sangkhlaburi and when the water levels are low the tops of submerged temples are revealed.

 

Buddhakaya Chedi

The golden tower of Buddhakaya Chedi which overlooks the lake and was built in the early 1980s. It is a replica of the Mahabodhi Stupa at Bodh Gaya in India. The reason this is important is because the Mahabodhi Stupa marks the spot of Buddha’s supposed original enlightenment.  Like most Thai temples it is full of an eclectic mix of colourful ornamentation.

 

 

Wat Wang Wiwekaram

Wat Wang Wiwekaram is the second major temple in Sangkhla Buri and is located very close to the Buddhakaya Chedi. It is also known as Wat Mon as it has a large number of Mon monks. Like the Buddhakaya Chedi, most of the complex was built in the 1980s to commemorate its widely revered head Monk whose remains are found in one hall, and a large Marble Buddha is found in another.

 

 

Phra Puttha Rup Ong Yai (Big Buddha)

Big Buddhas are a characteristic sight all over Thailand and the one being built close to the Wat Wang Wiwekaram Temple is visible from all around Sangkhla Buri. It affords magnificent views of Vajiralongkorn Lake and the surrounding mountains.

 

Wat Somdet

As we departed Sangkhla Buri we made a brief visit to the roadside Wat Somdet with its large reclining Buddha.

 

 

Hindad Hot Springs

As we retraced our journey driving back to Kanchanaburi we stopped at Hindad Hot Springs where we could join the locals and alternate between the hot pools and the cooler stream.

 

 

Kanchanaburi

Kanchanaburi is and will forever be associated with the infamous Death Railway built by Allied prisoners of war and forced Asian labourers during World War 2.

It is the location for the infamous ‘Bridge over the River Kwai’ which was immortalized by David Lean’s 1957 multi Oscar winning film of the same name and also the 2013 film ‘The Railway Man’. Consequently, as well as the Allied War Cemeteries there are both memorials and museums dedicated to the Death Railway.

With Caves, Waterfalls and National Parks aplenty in Kanchanaburi Province it is not surprising that ‘Kanch’ is one of Thailand’s most popular destinations for tourists.

 

 

And Finally ………………..

Although Kanchanaburi is primarily and rightfully known for its association with the infamous Death Railway there are many other reasons for visiting the city and surrounding area.

As well as National Parks, Caves and Waterfalls there are some magnificent and standout temples in close proximity to Kanchanaburi.  And I state this when Thailand is a country with no shortage of impressive Temples and ancient monuments.

Notable but not exclusive amongst these is the Cave Temple of Wat Tham Pu Wa and the 69 metre Pagoda at Wat Tham Sua that affords extensive views over the countryside and the neighbouring Wat Tham Khao Noi, a Chinese temple with its own separate pagoda

And although we did not visit either of these temples on this trip as our priority was to return to Bangkok, it would be remiss of me not to include some images of both, so the reader is fully aware of the wonderful range of attractions on the magical road to Sangkhla Buri.

 

Wat Tham Pu Wa

 

 

Wat Tham Sua